If you're looking to start wheelieing, picking up a solid 12 bar for grom setups is honestly the first thing you should do after buying the bike. It's one of those parts that pays for itself the very first time you accidentally go a little too far past the balance point. Instead of your tail light shattering into a million pieces and your rear fender getting shredded, the bar takes the hit, you (hopefully) stay on your feet, and the bike lives to see another parking lot session.
Groms are practically built for stunting, but let's be real—the stock rear end is a bit of a joke when it comes to durability. It's mostly plastic and thin metal that wasn't exactly designed to support the weight of a falling motorcycle. That's where the 12 bar comes in. It's called a 12 bar because it's designed to hit the ground when the bike is at a "12 o'clock" angle, or perfectly vertical.
Why You Actually Need One
You might think you're careful enough to never loop your bike, but if you're actually trying to learn how to slow wheelie, looping is just part of the process. It's going to happen. A good 12 bar for grom builds acts as a sacrificial lamb. It's a piece of steel that sticks out past the tail to make sure the expensive parts of your bike don't touch the pavement.
Beyond just protection, a 12 bar gives you a place to put your feet. If you've ever seen guys doing "staggered" wheelies or "highchairs" (where their legs are over the handlebars), they often use the bar as a platform. It changes the geometry of how you handle the bike while it's up on one wheel, giving you way more control and stability than you'd get just using the passenger pegs.
Choosing Between a Round Bar and a Scrape Plate
When you start shopping around, you'll notice there are two main styles: round bars and flat scrape plates. This is usually where people get stuck, but it really comes down to what you want to do with the bike.
A round bar is exactly what it sounds like—a curved piece of steel tubing. These are awesome if you're into doing circles or more technical maneuvers where the bike might be leaning to the side while it's at 12 o'clock. Because it's rounded, it doesn't "catch" an edge as easily, allowing for a smoother transition if the bike tilts.
On the other hand, you have the scrape plate style. These usually have a flat surface, and a lot of them come with a titanium block attached to the bottom. If you want to see a shower of sparks every time you hit the scrape, titanium is the way to go. Scrape plates are great for straight-line wheelies and they feel very stable when you're locked into that vertical position. The downside is they can sometimes "hook" the ground if you're not perfectly centered, which can be a bit jarring.
The Weak Link: The Grom Subframe
Here is the thing no one tells you when you first get into this: the Honda Grom subframe is kind of weak. If you bolt a heavy-duty steel 12 bar for grom stunting onto a stock subframe and then proceed to smash it into the ground repeatedly, the bar might survive just fine, but your subframe might start to twist or crack.
This is why a lot of riders eventually upgrade to a full subcage or at least add some reinforcement. If you're just starting out and doing "soft" scrapes, you're probably fine. But if you're planning on really beating on the bike, you should look into how the 12 bar mounts. Most of them use the four main bolts under the seat. Make sure those bolts are high-quality (Grade 8 or better) because the last thing you want is for the bolts to shear off while you're mid-wheelie.
Installation Isn't Too Bad
Most of the time, putting a 12 bar for grom on is a Saturday afternoon job. You usually have to trim a bit of the rear plastic or the "mud flap" fender to make room for the steel arms. It's a bit nerve-wracking to take a saw or a Dremel to your shiny new bike, but trust me, it looks way better than a snapped-off tail.
You'll want to make sure everything is centered before you torque the bolts down. If the bar is slightly crooked, your wheelies are going to feel weird. It'll pull the bike to one side every time you touch the bar to the ground. A little bit of blue Loctite on the bolts is also a smart move because Groms vibrate like crazy, and you don't want your bar rattling loose while you're cruising down the street.
Materials and Build Quality
Don't go cheap here. You might see some random "universal" bars online for fifty bucks, but you get what you pay for. A legit 12 bar for grom stunting should be made from thick-walled steel. Aluminum looks cool and it's light, but it's brittle. If you drop a bike with an aluminum bar, there's a decent chance it'll just snap or crack. Steel will bend before it breaks, which is exactly what you want when you're putting a few hundred pounds of force on it.
Look for bars that have clean welds and a good powder-coated finish. Since this part is going to be scraping against asphalt, the paint is going to come off eventually, but a good coating will help keep the rest of the bar from rusting out.
What to Look for in a Brand
There are a few big names in the Grom world that everyone knows—KevTek, Dark Knight Street, and Zeed are some of the popular ones. Each has a slightly different vibe. Some focus on being as light as possible, while others are built like tanks.
If you're just starting out, you don't necessarily need the most expensive custom-fabricated bar on the market. You just need something that fits right and doesn't get in the way of your rear tire. Some bars are adjustable, too, which is cool because you can change the "scrape angle." A higher bar means you have to get the bike more vertical to scrape, while a lower bar hits the ground sooner, which can be a good "training wheels" setup for beginners.
Safety and Practice
Once you've got your 12 bar for grom installed, the temptation to go out and drag it immediately is going to be huge. Just remember that even with a bar, you can still fall. The bar protects the bike; it doesn't necessarily protect you.
Always keep your right foot over the rear brake. That's your "panic button." If you feel like you're going over too far—even if you have the 12 bar there to catch you—tapping that rear brake will bring the front end down instantly.
Find a big, empty parking lot with smooth pavement. Rough asphalt or potholes can catch the bar and toss the bike sideways. You want a predictable surface while you're learning where that bar actually sits in relation to the ground. It's a weird feeling the first time you hear that skreeee sound of metal hitting the road, but once you get used to it, it's one of the most satisfying things about riding a Grom.
Final Thoughts
At the end of the day, a 12 bar for grom is about peace of mind. It's about knowing that a small mistake doesn't have to end your ride or cost you a fortune in OEM Honda parts. It changes the look of the bike, giving it that rugged, "stunt-ready" aesthetic, and it opens up a whole new world of tricks you can try.
Whether you're going for a round bar to master those circles or a flat plate with titanium to light up the night, just make sure you bolt it on tight and keep practicing. The Grom is one of the funnest platforms ever made for two wheels, and once you have the right protection, you can really start pushing your limits. Stay safe out there, keep your foot on the brake, and have fun scraping!